Journal article
Why rogue waves occur atop abrupt depth transitions
- Abstract:
- Abrupt depth transitions (ADTs) have recently been identified as potential causes of ‘rogue’ ocean waves. When stationary and (close-to) normally distributed waves travel into shallower water over an ADT, distinct spatially localized peaks in the probability of extreme waves occur. These peaks have been predicted numerically, observed experimentally, but not explained theoretically. Providing this theoretical explanation using a leading-order-physics-based statistical model, we show, by comparing to new experiments and numerical simulations, the peaks arise from the interaction between linear free and second-order bound waves, also present in the absence of the ADT, and new second-order free waves generated due to the ADT.
- Publication status:
- Published
- Peer review status:
- Peer reviewed
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- Files:
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(Preview, Accepted manuscript, 1.2MB, Terms of use)
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- Publisher copy:
- 10.1017/jfm.2021.409
Authors
- Publisher:
- Cambridge University Press
- Journal:
- Journal of Fluid Mechanics More from this journal
- Volume:
- 919
- Article number:
- R5
- Publication date:
- 2021-05-26
- Acceptance date:
- 2021-05-03
- DOI:
- EISSN:
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1469-7645
- ISSN:
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0022-1120
- Language:
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English
- Keywords:
- Pubs id:
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1177840
- Local pid:
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pubs:1177840
- Deposit date:
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2021-05-21
Terms of use
- Copyright holder:
- Li et al.
- Copyright date:
- 2021
- Rights statement:
- © The Author(s), 2021. Published by Cambridge University Press
- Notes:
- This is the accepted manuscript version of the article. The final version is available from Cambridge University Press at https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2021.409
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