Journal article
Anomalous wave statistics following sudden depth transitions: application of an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation
- Abstract:
-
Recent studies of water waves propagating over sloping seabeds have shown that sudden transitions from deeper to shallower depths can produce significant increases in the skewness and kurtosis of the free surface elevation and hence in the probability of rogue wave occurrence. Gramstad et al. (Phys. Fluids 25 (12): 122103, 2013) have shown that the key physics underlying these increases can be captured by a weakly dispersive and weakly nonlinear Boussinesq-type model. In the present paper, a ...
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- Publication status:
- Published
- Peer review status:
- Peer reviewed
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Bibliographic Details
- Publisher:
- Springer Publisher's website
- Journal:
- Journal of Ocean Engineering and Marine Energy Journal website
- Volume:
- 7
- Pages:
- 145-155
- Publication date:
- 2021-04-21
- Acceptance date:
- 2021-03-12
- DOI:
- EISSN:
-
2198-6452
- ISSN:
-
2198-6444
Item Description
- Language:
- English
- Keywords:
- Pubs id:
-
1130685
- Local pid:
- pubs:1130685
- Deposit date:
- 2020-09-06
Terms of use
- Copyright holder:
- Bonar et al.
- Copyright date:
- 2021
- Rights statement:
- Copyright © 2021 The Author(s). This article is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License, which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons licence, and indicate if changes were made. The images or other third party material in this article are included in the article’s Creative Commons licence, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line to the material. If material is not included in the article’s Creative Commons licence and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright holder. To view a copy of this licence, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/.
- Licence:
- CC Attribution (CC BY)
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